So Much B’un

We heart duck hearts at this stylish Vietnamese offshoot of Bao 111.

By

Ethan Wolff

November 30, 2007

By Ethan Wolff

I heart duck hearts. It just took B’un to enlighten me. This chic new Vietnamese hang has some adventurous stuff. There’s wild boar blood sausage, guinea hen, and duck bacon. Once I saw the duck hearts, though, I had to know. Pop the lid on the Le Creuset pot and the hearts are nestled together like so many little amphorae. There are twiggy things mixed in, too. Those would be the, um, duck tongues. A seven-spice brown gravy supports the organs, which taste just like regular duck, only richer. The texture pops on the hearts and gets downright squishy on the tongues. Presentation is lovely, as it is with everything here. A squared-off banana leaf holds a grilled lime. You squeeze the juice onto orange salt, which is tricked out with flakes of chili. The result is savory and citrusy and everything’s ducky.

Michael Bao Huynh is behind this show, which is as stylish and tasty as his Bao 111. (Warren Cuccurullo, of Duran Duran and Missing Persons fame, is a co-owner.) The modern interior seems designed to ease the transition from a club. A beat-heavy soundtrack plays loud. Distressed Buddha oil paintings watch over the front tables. Cozy wooden booths fill the narrow passage in back. The menu is all small plates. Ordering is done family-style, with dishes served as soon as they’re ready, which was lightning-quick on my visit. Rapid turnover seems to be a goal.

B’un’s name refers to Vietnamese vermicelli noodles. The ones here are excellent, taut and substantial despite their narrow gauge, served in broth, or dry, with hanger steak and apples or pork belly and pickled green papaya. There are also traditional takes on rolls. The salmon was terrific, with cilantro and mint leaves giving the fish a super-fresh lift. Nem, which my waiter helpfully explained as “some Vietnamese thing,” turns out to be a meat patty. B’un’s version features duck with a tasty seared-in sweetness, wrapped around foie gras so tender it all but gets lost. My favorite was the roasted black cod, a petite round of perfectly cooked fish, which synched right up with its sweet pepper and mango sauce.

They’re serving until 2am, making this fringe Soho street a good destination for a late-night food adventure. You won’t be overfed. And you might fall in love with something you just discovered is palatable.

QUICK BITES
Cuisine: Vietnamese tapas
Vibe: Modern, clubby, spare
Occasion: Adventurous evening extender for limited appetites
Damage: $100 for a three-course meal for two with one drink each, including tax and tip
Reservations: Recommended
Not to Be Missed: Duck hearts, $9; black cod, $12