R.I.P. Abbijane & Braden Keil

My generation of clubbies seems to keep adding to the list of recent deaths. Braden Keil of the New York Post passed away this past week. To me, he was always one of the real smart kids on the block. He was able to grasp the complexities of the world I analyze and see it for what it was, without letting all the trappings distract him. He was a great, fun, and honest man who took the time to listen and encourage. When my world went south, he encouraged me, believed in me, and helped get me through the rough times. He was one of the nicest guys I've ever met. The recent passing of downtown designer and icon Abbijane also came suddenly; she suffered a massive brain hemorrhage last Thursday and had surgery but died the next day surrounded by family and friends. I remember Abbijane from the Mudd Club days when she was invariably on the arm of DJ David Azark. To me they were the perfect couple, always dressed well and hanging with the smartest of sets. As our paths crossed over the years, we were always friendly, but I didn't know her as well as some did, so I asked Walter Cessna, a good friend of hers, to write a few words about her. Walter is in Florida and was unable to travel to Abbijane's service yesterday, but he had a lot to say about the iconic Abbijane.

I first met Abbijane in 1984 when I was a fashion stylist for the original Details Magazine. The legendary publisher/editor Annie Flanders told me that I absolutely had to meet this crazy girl who was designing the most beautifully made clothes on the downtown scene. Upon meeting her, I coined the term “Ready-To-Couture” because Abbijane’s designs were so exceptionally sewn and were made in the most exquisite fabrics that placing them in the category of ready-to-wear seemed completely wrong. Abbijane didn’t do typical fashion shows. For many years, she used one model, the iconic Sara Kapp, (and later the ubiquitous red-haired Alison Cohn) who would slowly and very elegantly try on each piece of the collection in full view of the audience, as if she were in her boudoir getting ready for an evening out. The designs were always simple and chic, and early signature pieces included bell sleeved tunics, perfectly cut bolero jackets, cuffed shorts, and flared coats, always in the best fabrics which often included silk brocades, velvet, and even denim.

She never played by the rules and did things her own way—a true New York City original. She was a regular at early 80s hot pots like The Mudd Club and Danceteria, but was always up and ready for business the next day, multitasking in a way that would put most people to shame. The late designer Perry Ellis was an early fan, and eventually Abbijane secured her place as one of the go-to designers that stores like Bendels & Bloomingdales went to regularly for the cool chic clothes she excelled at. She never veered from her signature style, and her multitude of fans were extremely grateful, knowing they could always count on her for the perfect dress or separates that would look as current and comfortable for years without ever risking the pitfall of being trendy.

So many of the great talents of the early downtown scene have left us way too early in the past few years, from Stephen Sprouse to Dean Johnson and now Abbijane. But like them, she leaves a lasting legacy of not only her steadfast fans and friends but a truly original and beautiful take on style that was never too “of the moment” and remains as consistent and current as it did when she showed her first collection at the St. Regis Hotel 30 years ago. Abbijane didn’t believe in following trends or trying too hard; everything she did or touched seemed utterly effortless, and like the other grand dames of fashion, most notably Chanel, she came into her own early in her career and never veered too far away from what her legion of fans always lovingly referred lovingly to as “that Abbijane look”.

Photo: Walter Cessna