Los Angeles: One Day in Silver Lake

If Los Angeles were a band, Hollywood would be the showy lead singer. And Silver Lake would be the understated, contemplative bassist -- the George Harrison of LA neighborhoods. Here’s how to spend a day in this artsy section of the city.

Breakfast: Start your day with one of the scrambles -- Benedict or Florentine -- at Millie's, where they do everything the pain-in-the-ass, old-fashioned way: by hand and from scratch.

Walk: Think nobody walks in LA? Well, you’re probably right. But if you head down to the Silver Lake Reservoir, you’ll find plenty of locals cruising the newly opened walking path or sunning in the three-and-a-half-acre meadow, all part of a $2.1 million “all natural” project.

Sip: The coffee gurus at Intelligentsia have brought caffeination to another level—the beans are grown with the same care and commitment that artisanal farmers have for heirloom vegetables. The coffee’s also brewed by the cup rather than a whole batch, and there’s a seasonal lineup of featured brews and beans. So sip some socially and environmentally sustainable coffee, and you’ll feel superior to the Hollywood hype.

Lunch: Go Local for lunch at veteran chef Jason Michaud’s latest LA venture. Michaud’s so serious about serving local, organic ingredients, he named his restaurant for it. The organic salad bar, priced by the pound, offers plenty of greens and protein, and the menu is limited but eclectic, focusing on sandwiches and burgers for $11. There’s no beef hamburger, alas, as Michaud couldn’t find any California-raised beef he liked.

Shop: Mercado owners and longtime Silver Lakers Michelle Weaver and Chelsea Iovino traveled the world to bring rare merchandise to their modern Silver Lake shop. Los Angeles-based designers are also on the shelves, including Denise Plumb’s mysteriously soft tees and Jennifer Herwitt’s creepy-beautiful insect-inspired jewelry. The exotic doesn’t come cheap, but Mercado is worth a browse, and if you’re lucky, a splurge.

Cruise: If you want to buy (or just pine after) a vintage bike, check out Illuminati Motorcycles. Owner Barron has racer-style motorcycles for $2,500 and under, and a couple bikes are always parked on the corner of Sunset and Vendome, drawing hipsters on the way to shows at the Silverlake Lounge.

Dinner: Sure, neighborhood taquería Malo has become a much-less-secret spot since Brad Pitt showed up, but only those in the know order the off-menu “chewy chips,” a softer (and certainly more fattening) version of tortilla chips. The hipster-approved fare includes ground beef and pickle tacos and dangerously delicious fruit-infused top-shelf tequila.

Drink: Styled after a glammed-up 70s truck stop, Stinkers is kitsch and a half—mirrored walls lined with 5,000 vintage beer cans, cutouts of Burt Reynolds, and wall-mounted skunks (some with trucker hats). If you hear someone on the CB, a bartender is likely about to pull a cord causing a row of skunk butts to spray an odorless mist, giving new meaning to “drunk as a skunk.”


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