BlackBook Magazine

Mexican in the Meatpacking: Who you tryin' to get crazy with, esse?

By Katherine Faw Morris

My high school Spanish intuition tells me that “los dados” translates as “the dice,” preferably the red fuzzy kind that are meant for the rearview mirror of a 1986 Camaro. Not that I could spot any at Los Dados, a homey Mexican addition to Meatpacking’s après-shopping scene. Nor after a soothing dip in the margarita and tortilla chip ocean did I care. That whole name connoting meaning thing is way overrated.

Los Dados, helmed by Sueños’ Sue Torres and velvet rope vets David Rabin and Will Regan, seeks to be a bright place. An inverted lime skin, filled to the rim with a straight shot of mescal, bobbed atop my blackberry cocktail. Walls painted blue and orange harbored alcoves decked out as traditional Mexican religious shrines. An adjoining take-out taqueria satisfies on-the-go queso corn on the cob cravings. Yet for a spot claiming “Mexican home cooking,” I couldn’t seem to forget my location. There’s nothing down home about the Meatpacking District. And to this end the lighting itself was dim, spilling from severe steel chandeliers, and the altar closest to my table was devoted not to the Virgin Guadalupe, but Andy Warhol, complete with soup cans.

This catfight between chic and comfort showed up intermittently on the menu, which shuttles from carpaccio to organic chicken enchiladas to tamarind-glazed hanger steak. But the Antojitos section was peacefully addictive, starting with salty, crispy, dangerous tortilla chips accompanied by fiery salsa and guacamole. When they say “hot” at Los Dados, they mean it. So thank you for that, Chef Torres, because nothing’s worse than skittish guac. Thank you as well for salivation-worthy treats like beef picadillo mini tacos, sold by the half dozen. Sweet barbecued beef sprinkled with queso fresco and pico de gallo, stuffed in little hard shell corn tortilla boats—intensely satisfying in a way that only meat and cheese and crunch can be. The coriander crusted tuna tostados were also lip-smackable, the hearty slabs of tuna refreshed with a sweetly citrus pineapple chile salsa.

Entrees veered toward less solid ground. De Pescado tacos of coconut-infused cod ladled with an avocado poblano sauce, served open-faced on chile de arbol tortillas, though nicely creamy, were dulled by too many layers of flavor. However, a dense, spongy tamale of shredded achiote-spiced Yucatan pork, buffeted by grilled shrimp and a banana leaf drenched in ancho sauce, demonstrated the proper way to over-accessorize.

In some ways Los Dados is a contradiction. A “restaurante bar familiar” from the model and bottle wranglers who brought the world Lotus and The Double Seven—huh? But after topping off my meal with two mounds of ingenious pistachio ice cream/chocolate-mulato profiteroles, I was inclined to overlook it all. Tequila, salty chips, mini tacos, chocolate. Some things need no explanation.

QUICK BITES
Cuisine: Mexican
Vibe: Home cooking, Mepa-style. Fork and knife finger food.
Occasion: Après-shopping, pre-bottle service.
Damage: $100+ for a three-course meal for two with one drink each, including tax and tip
Reservations: Recommended
Not to Be Missed: Beef Picadillo Mini Tacos ($13/half dozen)

73 Gansevoort St. (Washington St.) losdadosmexican.com 646-810-7290 Meatpacking District