Paris Couture Shows: Givenchy

One of my favorite aspects of the unveiling of a new collection is when the parading looks are so obviously inspired by an offbeat trip a designer has taken. Witnessing the translation of tribal ornamentation and indigenous dress to something we wear on more of a daily basis rather than ceremonially makes each piece that much more special. Givenchy's Ricardo Tischi must have worn muse velcro as he traversed through the Middle East and far reaches of Morocco, as an air of Arabian warrior meets harem princess wafted its sweet, exotic aroma through this visceral collection.

An equestrian vibe suffused the show, but it seemed the models sporting the intensely tailored velvet jackets and tightly worn pants were better suited to mount dragons instead of mere steeds. As the looks continued to reveal a dress that dripped over the body like tarry lizard skin, complete with horned epaulets that ran down the arms and a bolero that, had it adorned today’s toreador, would have scared the bull out of the ring, it was clear we were dealing with a legion of fiercely feminine warriors. Gold chains and chestplates lent a sense of armor; severely sequined harem pants completed the sheik’s army look, but it wasn’t all “protect and serve.” Batik-inspired prints freshened up a few dresses and tunics, and the occasional splash of red—really the only colorful insert—kept the eccentricity strictly eastern.

Verdict: It’s clear that Ricardo Tischi consults fairy tale anthologies over design books for his inspiration, and his resulting collections prove he’s really onto something.