The Fight of the Fashion Bloggers
November 17, 2009
Not too long ago, fashion editors regarded fashion blogs, with their real people and street style, as the hobby of a handful of overzealous, amateur fans. Today the fashion blogosphere's littered with individuals sharing their passion for style, from their own daily outfits to photographing other well-dressed pedestrians. And the perks that come to the web’s fortunate shinning talents are impressive: front-row seats at fashion shows, free samples, modeling contracts, design, styling, and photography contracts with established retailers, book deals, and editorial work. Fashion bloggers, once outsiders to the insular world of fashion, are now carving a spot for themselves among the fashion media and reaping the benefits of exposure. But what are they giving up?
All this attention from the fashion mainstream is blurring the line between independent, accessible fashion bloggers and the rest of the industry gatekeepers. The whole allure with fashion blogging is the fact that it’s an alternative to the fashion media. While not all bloggers are rubbing shoulders with those in the industry, when designers are dressing you for their shows and giving you a front-row seat or department stores are sending you packages, a regular gal you are definitely not. Street-style photographers have turned their lens from nameless faces on the street with great style to fashion insiders with access to designers most could only dream of. The dynamics of the conversation in fashion blogs has changed with the reader left now as the only outsider—just like in glossy magazines. And what’s so indie about that?
“If a blogger is interested in fashion and ultimately wants to pursue a career in the industry, that sort of absorption should be commended, and considered a success of the medium,” says Zana Bayne, who runs the cheeky and popular Garbagedress.com and designs leather accessories. The 21-year-old Bayne is an old-school fashion blogger who at the age of 12 was writing her fashion thoughts on LiveJournal fashion communities before personal blogging became a la mode. “A blog has the unique power of functioning as a portfolio of personality, taste, and ability—some have realized this and are smart and strategic with their blogging intentions.”
Unlike some other forms of blogging, fashion blogging in the last couple of years has proven to have a possibly disproportionate effect on the industry it covers—not to mention becoming a profitable new media business for some. Gone are the days of the anonymous blogger. A fashion blogger today must be fluent in networking, self-promotion, and be ready to put in a considerable amount of work into a blog in order to stand out from the crowd.
Work-at-home designer and Keiko Groves, who blogs about fashion at Keiko Lynn, says having to adhere to the independent label associated with blogging is ridiculous. “I imagine most fashion bloggers blog about fashion because they love it. So how is it selling out to accept an invitation into a world you once thought was completely impenetrable?”
Some bloggers, like Lulu Chang, aren’t so easily wooed. “I think it’s hard for anyone to avoid the allure of the fashion industry. It’s a personal choice—I love fashion, but I prefer to stay away from the industry.” Back in March 2008 Chang launched her blog, Lulu and Your Mom, to offer readers a fresh perspective on fashion. She never envisioned how popular it would become. “Bloggers have definitely reached a whole new level of influence. It can be overwhelming. I think the problem with a lot of new bloggers is that they are too motivated by free stuff and fame. At the end of the day, you should blog because it makes you happy.”
Comments (12)
Posted by Wearing White After Labor Day on Tue Nov 17, 2009 at 12.50 pm
I blog as a hobby, and as a way to express myself. I’m also a lawyer, so I think the blogging is a nice way to mix up my experience and expression.
Posted by Letting Them Eat Cake on Wed Nov 18, 2009 at 06.01 pm
I blog purely as a hobby (http://lettingthemeatcake.blogspot.com/). I started because I wanted to create my own space where I could post all of my favourite things - outfits, celeb pics, fashion news, etc. But I also hope it’s interesting for readers who may have similar tastes & interests.
I don’t think that it’s a bad thing to “blur the line” - the closer people are to the fashion industry the more informed they’ll be...& that can only be a good thing!
Posted by jy on Wed Nov 18, 2009 at 09.52 pm
man i so agree with lulu. we don’t need fashion bloggers to jump into the bandwagon of commercial advertising, brainwashing us into needing, wanting and idolatry. to some extent it kinda disgusts me how some are using it as a medium for self exhibitionism and unabashedly promoting their blogs
Posted by Julie H. on Wed Nov 18, 2009 at 10.54 pm
Actually there are new regulation from the FTC that bloggers have to disclose when they get something for free that they write about. I honestly think it helps the blogger’s credibility to be honest. At least then the reader can decide for themselves how they feel about it.
It’s when I see a blog that is positive review after review of products that makes me wonder. I’m less likely to read that blog or add it to my Reader. Especially when they aren’t saying if they received the product for free or not.
Posted by Auntie Fashion on Thu Nov 19, 2009 at 12.26 am
Blogging also allows former insiders to rant incessantly about the industry with which they’ve developed such a complex love/hate relationship. Having fifty-thousand strangers read your therapy sessions every week is quite therapeutic.
Posted by maria on Fri Nov 20, 2009 at 12.12 am
I completely agree with lulu-- when a certain blogger says “geez, i love that sweater but i can’t possibly afford it”, it’s a cry for a freebie. Honesty is really important in a blogger--establishes cred, builds a relationship with readers--, and if they’re leveraging their fame to get free stuff, well, the least they can do is be honest about it.
Posted by Blue Floppy Hat on Sat Nov 21, 2009 at 01.06 am
Both Susie’s and Lulu’s POVs make sense- with Susie, if it’s something sent to her AFTER she does a post of her own volition, the ethics are way less questionable than you see with so many bloggers.
But I have to say I’d come down more heavily on Lulu’s side- she once mentioned people getting nasty when she didn’t feature some freebie on her blog. No one needs that kind of pressure, and an endless stream of product reviews isn’t what I go to fashion blogs for anyway. Some blogs make it work because whatever they’ve gotten sent seems to fit their personal style, others....you can tell when it’s a plug.
Posted by jennine on Mon Nov 23, 2009 at 08.48 pm
personally, i wonder… if you’re doing it for a hobby, then great, but if it’s something you love, then why not strive to make your fashion blog a viable source of income?
i put a lot of work into my blogs, and take monetization very seriously. turning away money for something you love and work very hard on doesn’t make you more virtuous or ethical. nor does it mean your blog has better content.
Posted by AndreaP on Mon Nov 23, 2009 at 09.58 pm
Hey, I commend you for telling it like you see it. I’d like to believe that many (including myself) are not writing for the freebies, though. In fact, I appreciate good seats at fashion shows because I feel like I can give a more accurate review of the lines I see. I would agree that there are some who might be in love with the glitz and glamour.
But I can’t seem to keep my laptop closed long enough to open my free gifts. The bottom line is that if fashion bloggers are sincere in their posts, they’ll continue to add value to the industry.
That’s what I’d like to believe anyway. Thanks for the post!
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Posted by Michel on Tue Nov 17, 2009 at 08.29 am
I personally blog just because I love fashion but no one near me does, so I use my blog to express my fashion thoughts.