The Menu Has Two Faces: Giano
An Italian resto with a deliciously split personality
Laurel Cummings
February 28, 2008
Giano’s executive chef Gianfranco Luorio and friends will tell you (in heavy Italian accents) that their East Village restaurant is named for Giano, a.k.a. Janus, the two-faced Roman god of change. Traditionally, one of Giano’s faces looks to the past, the other to the future. Giano casts his blessing on Luorio’s establishment by splitting the menu right down the middle. One half “Faces the Past” with traditional Italian dishes like spaghetti with pachino tomatoes, eggplant, and pecorino cheese, while the other “Faces the Future” with contemporary dishes that might draw a disapproving glare from your nonna (skewered monk fish wrapped in prosciutto in a white-bean puree, for example).
Luorio and company honor their patron deity with dishes tastier than Venus’ kickin’ curves. From the traditional menu, a warmed ricotta cheese appetizer wrapped in prosciutto and served over a puree of red and green peppers keeps well within the theme of balance, as both the cheese and the meat delicately bring out their respective flavors without overwhelming. Fast-forward to the contemporary side of things, and the homemade pasta with cured fish and roe served in black truffle oil is easily the standout on the entire double menu.
The philosophy may date back to swords and sandals, but the bar décor is decidedly modern, from the translucent hanging light fixtures to the bar covered in chunky sea salt imported from the Mother Country. According to Luorio, Giano generally makes his appearances on bridges, symbolizing the transition from one place to another. While hand-carved tabletops and plenty o’ geometric patterns live up to Village standard of funkiness in the front, the back offers a cozy enclosed garden ideal for summertime dining. As a bonus, you get all the classic traits of a romantic Italian restaurant, complete with flickering candlelight from a not-so-roaring faux-fireplace (compliments of Vesta, goddess of the hearth).
Successfully bridging the gap between the past and the present of Italian dining—a Herculean feat to say the least.
QUICK BITES:
Cuisine: Italian
Vibe: Chill, with just enough funkiness to validate East Village address
Occasion: Your date’s a little bit old-school, you’re a little bit rock-and-roll
Damage: $68 for apps and entrees for two, plus two drinks
Reservations: Recommended
Not to Be Missed: Tagliolini con botterarga e tartufo nero (home-made pasta with cured fish roe and black truffle
Giano, 126 E 7th St. (between1st Ave. and Avenue A), (212) 673-7200, Downtown Manhattan/East Village
[photo]
Be the first to chime in, leave a reply below or Login to save it to your profile.