Live from Burgos, fashion capitol of the world! Where? It might sound a little more convincing if Bruno had said it, but still, the tiny hillside town in the middle of nowhere, Spain, remains an oft-overlooked spot on the Iberian map, until now. Population roughly 178,000, Burgos sits in the cusp of the Castilla y Leon regions of Spain and though "made in Burgos" never really makes it onto the tag of your cardi, this cultural hub is the birthing ground of many of the world's most exotic fabrics. So what comes first, the fabric or the designer? Look no further for the answer to that one than the illustrious shows of Burgos Fashion Week, a sartorial parade with a cachet all its own. It's just like New York, sans the ruched jersey-clad, City-watching wannabes committing seat theft for the sake of a Fame Game hit). Runways showcased the wearable and the "what the....?" from a venerable lineup of designers, rookie and veteran alike, for an ooh'ing audience of new fans and seasoned devotees. We had the pleasure and privilege of attending the best of the best, and rather than try to explain the fashion ruckus through mere words, we took a turn for the tech and got savvy with our Mac and churned out a few well-curated videos of the best and brightest.
Burgos-born Amaya Arzuaga took every principle of conceptual architecture and translated it from construction to clothing. Mere ruching was left behind for sculpture, yielding a crop of three-dimensional dresses, frocks and jackets in every material from a not-so-basic cotton to chiffon creations we've only dreamed of. It was a collection based on angles, and one acute success.
Call Salamancan designer Concha Ceballos' designs soft; call them luxe, but don't ever call them dainty. This lady knows a strong print when she sees one and can turn a fruity floral into a carnivorous cloak with her fiercely tailored designs.
It's clear from Fely Campo's playful designs that she knows how to have fun. Her spring collection consisted of a variety of dresses, ranging from cocktail to gown to demi-bridal. Models merely paraded her pieces down the runway, as they had an inherent life of their own. Soft metallics, subtle prints and a few bold black and whites are sure to make next spring a whole lotta fun!
One thing is for sure about Bilbaoan designer Ion Fiz's Spring 2010 collection -- the designer is clearly farsighted. Instead of hearkening to classic designs of decades past, Fiz looked to the future, and if his predictions are correct, we're in for a pretty amazing fashion forecast. Coats were sheer, virtually every piece boasted a metallic sheen, shoulders were squared and lines were so sleekly modern. Dresses daringly crawled above the knee with the clear message that no matter how conceptual fashion of the future gets, it's always going to be sexy.
For his Spring 2010 collection, Salamancan designer Javier Vicente concentrated on his prime subject: the woman. Taking every facet of her various wardrobe options into consideration, he started by sexifying uniforms, giving us a sexy candy striper meets Jackie O. Following dresses were decidedly feminine, as Vicente exercised every girly trick in the book -- bright prints in layers, smart ruching and tasteful use of frills. The color palette was all over the place, but who doesn't like a little variety?
Right off the bat, Katty Xiomara was a diamond in the rough; a Portuguese designer in the middle of Spain? Remember, diamonds are precious and so was her Spring 2010 collection. This lady is not afraid to show some skin, and thankfully, neither were her models. Playful dresses showed just enough leg to keep a girl flirty, while an impressive lineup of swimwear is sure to redefine Ibiza chic, from the beach to a star-studded cocktail hour.
Leon-based Maria LaFuente was already an icon when she showed in Burgos this year to a glitterati-littered audience, and it wasn't hard to see why. Concept-wise, it seemed LaFuente spent all night at the disco, but instead of interpreting the fashion she saw, she let the dance moves guide her collection. Men's suits were splattered in gold paint, dresses ranged from animalistic layers to blousons and balloon skirts while hotpants became, well, hot again. The finale look, a dress made of blown-glass globes, delicately served as reminder that bold need not always been colorful, keeping Maria LaFuente's icon status that much more bona fide.
To fully capture the magic of Pablo Mayaya, one must always look up -- literally. Mayaya's trade is millinery, and boy does he dole out a nice hat. Embellished cloches blossomed into tulle and feather creations. Straw hats retained the exotic details they picked up on tropical expeditions. The days where headwear was the main attraction are creeping back, and we've got artistic visionaries like Pablo Mayaya to thank for that.
Set in the more bucolic regions of Spain, the Castilla y Leon region is the industrial equivalent to its surroundings, yielding a crop of exceptional talent and culture. As any fashionable attendee could attest, it's not difficult to label a sequence of sartorial events a "fashion week," but it takes certain artistic genius to make it memorable. It helps to walk away grasping a vision rather than a mere dress. A testament to art rather than a wearable rack of clothing. It's especially important to the future of fashion to allow such cultural hotspots as Burgos that geographically may not jump off the map yet a chance to shine in an age where uniqueness is the key to expression, the key to survival.


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