Editorial Review

It goes against the flow, but walk directly to the kitchen in the back and pick out what gets your saliva flowing—from moussaka to heifer or stuffed squid, depending on the day. Waiters then hold their breaths to squeeze by tightly organized tables to serve overflowing plates so moist they almost have their own ecosystem. Arrangement isn’t important apparently; meat will be sloshed on top of rice on top of another side. You'll need the ouzo afterward. Framed mini posters of Greece set among a blue and white paint colorway on the walls and olive oil on the shelves give it an authentic Athens backdrop—you call it tacky, we call it a good try at decoration that probably impressed people when it first opened. Lunch gets busy, but move over, because talkative diners have no problem sharing eating spaces or bites of their desserts.