Adour

Stodgy St. Regis overcomes mid-life crisis with kitchen retake, trophy trademark chef Alain Ducasse.  Rockwell designers break the rules with aplomb—white carpet under white chairs, chrome tables—then teak panels, gold leaf alcoves.  Glass walls of wine bear up medieval oak beams.  Back pantry is Fort Knox of foie gras, delivers a digital version of Dordogne with Milanese potluck.  Youngish celebrants pretend for the night, Washingtonian lords and ladies line up, Viennese diplomats approve.