Alain Ducasse Au Plaza Athenée

Having graduated from Ducasse’s midmarket Spoon, Food & Wine, chef Christophe Moret continues to mature at this loftier post. The two-tiered menu, “Plaisirs de Table” and the more expensive “Collection,” changes according to the seasons. Perfectly-executed but ultimately simple combinations: caviar, cream and langoustine, or brebis, peppered caramel and honey. The classic space (dressed by Patrick Jouin) wears a modern glove and buzzes with well-drilled waiters. €240/360 menus, €300+ carte. Closed weekends and at lunchtime Monday - Wednesday.