Allen & Delancey

Old world class on a dingy corner of the new LES. Though Neil Ferguson has moved on, Old Blighty mains like fluke, cod, lamb, and cabbage remain, tarted up with pickled pears, trompettes, and fenugreek syrup. Caramelized bone marrow and caviar to start. After-dinner cheese plate from Essex Market's Saxelby's ties things back to Delancey. Romantic, dimly lit rooms, red velvet, old bricks, dark walnut. Oil paintings and spare hardcovers make your bon mots seem even wittier.