Alto

Convivio's midtown cuz, serving up more Michael White sublimities. Named for Alto Adige region, Northern Italian styles inspire ambitious menu. Tasting menu the way to go, changing seasonally, hitting handmade pasta, roasted fish, fluke carpaccio with pomegranate. Gets decadent, too, like Amish veal chop with cipollini onions and pancetta cream sauce. Sleek, somewhat corporate scene, with lime-green trim and frosted glass to signal modernity. Massive blue-shaded bottle wall not-so-subtle nod at 2,600-vintage list. Or just skip the sommelier and BYOB—corkage fee is waived for now. Long live the recession!