Editorial Review

Fresh, humble ingredients are transformed into Mediterranean magic at this casual yet elegant restaurant on the lower edge of the Upper East Side. Chef Devon Gilroy draws from the traditions of Greece, Italy, Croatia, Turkey, and Spain with inventive takes on vegetables, whole grains, lamb, and fish. Get going with dry cured sausages and salumi, followed by artichoke crostini and an order of lamb sweetbreads and cheeks (a house specialty). Mains include Bobo farms chicken and whole branzino, but it's impossible to go wrong, unless you skip the kataifi cannoli for dessert. That would just be wrong. Nice selection of wine and spirits too. I'll be sipping a Whistlepig Rye.