Editorial Review

Owned by Eat Well Drink Better, the company behind tighty-whitie clubhouses Central, Union Park and English, Angels and Mariachis is decorated in a mélange of stereotypes encompassing the obvious in both Mexican and tattoo cultures: wrestling masks, mariachi musicians, and a sombrero’d skull logo framed by scrollwork and six-guns. The irony is lost on tatted-up white servers pimping cheap, not-too-spicy Mexican-esque food in a newly hip neighborhood where rising property values pushed out all the Mexicans. (Of course, they’re still available to bus your table.) Literally and figuratively, real taquerias are not far from this place—they even have a picture of one on the wall. Why not go there instead?