A.O.C.

B-list version of Aaron Spelling teen drama? Hardly. Pithy name amended by ample wine selection. Euro-style wine bar may be Lucques' spicier sister, but she's still well-mannered. Charcuterie is tops: jamon Serrano, speck et al. A four-star loft of white tablecloths, and slightly less white walls, sets the heart on fire. Just try getting reservations for Valentine's Day, or tonight for that matter. We munch Devil's Thighs like a gaggle of Eastwick witches.