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Subdued, well-appointed interior suits low-key, vaguely ghettoish surroundings. Peasant's Frank DeCarlo fires you up with creatively constructed sophisto-pizzas. The chef's written a book called "A Man & His Meatballs," reason enough to stop in. Oh, and don't get caught out there looking all public school-educated and stuff, repeat after us: ah-BEETS. Now you're a regular.
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