Astier

With its checkered cloth napkins and old-school waiters, this place is delightfully time-warp. Local bargain-hunters and tourists (it’s in every guide) come for grandmotherly classics like rabbit in a pot. The shit-yourself cheese tray is as big as the table and a good way to taste different varieties. Book-length wine list is well-chosen but leans to €30+ bottles. Roll your full belly after to the Oberkampf bars. Astier is open every day.