Bobby Van's Steakhouse

The steaks and chops are as reliably basic as the too-loud, too-desperate bubble-era throwbacks drowning their receccion hangovers standing three-deep at the bar are depressing. This is too say they are very reliable (the steaks; you are your own with the wedding-ring-hiding middle-age dudes who flock here to relive the glory days. The original location that spawned the six others, this Bobby V's has been in Bridgehampton sice 1969, though it has moved from across the street, and was once the dingy and slightly divey refuge of the likes of Truman Capote, Frank O'Hara and other Manhattan lit-scenester back in the day. It's now a spiffed up corporate behomoth plating prie cuts and seafood to weekenders out to max out what's left of their credit.