Buenos Aires

Argentine ringmaster Ismael Alba and wife Karina De Marco's succulent slice of BA on low-key, historic East Vil block (The Godfather was shot here). Juicy bife de chorizo, perfect morcilla, tender mollejas and other cow-themed hits get the real deal Argentine parrilla treatment. Malbec-sipping fans include Borges' ex María Kodama, Donatella Versace, Latin rockers, bishops, UN diplos, top Argie soccer players and well-behaved barra bravas. Where US-Cuba relations are re-kindled over empanadas - ask Ismael for the full story. Sunday afternoons catch Boca Juniors fans gloating as they beat hapless rivals River Plate once again.