Caffé dei Cioppi

Tiny trattoria with only a handful of seats and a counter-top view of the kitchen. Watch as Frederica and Fabrizio assemble fresh mozza and other select ingredients into shining examples of simplicity. Squash risotto, spaghetti with clams, lamb shoulder, mascarpone and sbrisolana. Soft lighting and close quarters make this a great spot for a date, but a spate of breathless reviews have made reservations a necessity. Try for one of the three open nights - they're closed all day Saturday and Sunday, plus Monday and Tuesday evening.