Canele

Whole branzino, chalkboard menu, and free namesake dessert to-go redefines Silver Lake's upwardly-mobile Bohemians with a poet's life, darkened mood and sophisticated food from a former chef of Lucques. Small spaces always spawned great works—the lamb, pork chops, and grapefruit flambé as inspired as the pieces on the red walls. Mediterranean flavors in Pacific cool. The price is right, but can get crowded with no ability to reserve a confirmed place.