Carmelo's

Upstairs in the secret dining room there's a mural of a magnificent view of an ocean amid ruins. The idea is to be swept away to the Mediterranean. The accordion player snaking around lovers' tables reinforces this. The building itself is a historical landmark. It was built in 1872 as a waystation for railroad passengers. It's limestone look is totally Texas, not Tuscany. But the menu obliges both worlds. There's sole and there's steak.