Carte Blanche

Continuing the gentrification above Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, this relative newcomer stars Jean François Renard in the kitchen and Claude Dupont (ex-Gagnaire) up front. Spartan beam and stone decor belies elaborate, chameleonlike neobistro menu of offbeat combinations and preparations. Appetizers are presented in novelty sardine tins and vegetable cans. Main dishes like scallops and boudin noir à la plancha or veal cheeks with cumin and cardamom are as successful as they are curious. Great value, though the service could slow down. Menus at €26/29/35/40. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday.