Chez Fuchs

Not much has changed at this inundated, resto-bar-tabac in fifty-plus years. Generally stubborn French people don't grumble, because the formula works here. No-superfluities menu with price point to match is agreeable. Beware of aggressive, Chloé-clad, gypsy-setters queuing up for their chance to devour grilled prawns, coastal Italian plates, Rouille de Seiche, and stuffed artichokes (Barigoule), comparable to heaven. Thank god they’re not too antiquated for reservations.