Editorial Review

Cicero’s is an Italian restaurant that moonlights as a club that weekends as a bar. And as with most multitaskers, the quality of each task suffers proportionally to the quantity of its competition—and Cicero has lots of balls in the air. It’s unfair to review Cicero’s exclusively on its food, because the places thrives for other reasons (many of which are beyond me). The lasagna is just preamble to the nightlife, which is really Cicero’s garlic bread and butter. Don’t get it twisted, the pasta is reputable, but really, if you’re looking for no-bullshit Italian excellence, there are better villas to knock at. Cicero’s is all a’bustle, which is the point, and while the moving/shaking is good for the dance floor, somewhere in the commotion something gets lost. It might be authenticity. Or dignity. You should check.