Citronelle

Crème de la crème. Main circus ring for the great Michel Richard-the twinkle-eyed magician who pulled this fair city out of its gutter of steak joints and imitative French restaurants. Grand cuisine that's playful enough: meat three ways, lobster sliders, trick-or-treat petits fours. Gourmands rave with sealed lips, line up for the Chef's table. Underground sophistication: unexpected fabrics, mute lighting, rare gold hues. Two walls of wine frames kitchen dance recital. Everywhere feels private.