CityZen

League-of-its-own degustation destination. Prizewinning chef earns nightly acclaim, bends classic French concepts like balloon animals, salutes cornucopia of America's bounty. Marble hall sans ceiling. Mainstage kitchen kinetic; mute with the concentration of culinary calligraphy. Silent waiters walk on air, fill glasses with mere eye blinks. Sacramental dining: farm-to-table butters, monogrammed cocktail napkins, velvety bum cushions. More excellent wines than a French parliamentarian's basement. Anne Hathaway look-a-likes, handsome in-love couples, the good guys: shiny, happy people eating food.