Criterion

Every bit as theatrical as the next-door playhouse with which it shares its name, Marco Pierre White’s Piccadilly brasserie is as ostentatious as it gets. Huge gilt, Versailles-like mirrors reflect the glittering, gold mosaic ceiling – creating a kind of ancient Byzantium meets P Diddy’s crib vibe – while a smart crowd of well-heeled theatregoers and upmarket foodies dine on pricey French classics such as oysters and roast suckling pig with apple sauce.