DBGB Kitchen & Bar

Daniel descends on the Bowery, mashes up high/low, uptown/downtown, French brasserie/all-American tavern. Modern space nods to area's recent history, stacks its shelves like a kitchen supply store. (The copper stuff up top comes from legendary chefs.) Food leans toward comfort, as in sausages, hot dogs, matzoh ball soup. Two burgers topped with pork, but opt for the classic Yankee, served with a legit Lower East Side pickle. Comfort extends to the booze, with a strong showing in craft beers and a more or less moderate wine list. Lift a glass to Hilly, try not to regret your lost youth.