Editorial Review

Marc Forgione, son of Larry Forgione—a pioneer of New American cuisine based around local ingredients—staked out a cozy, wood-lined space off of Reade in Tribeca to come out from under his old man's shadow; turns out Pops better be looking over his shoulder. Starters like seared Hudson Valley foie gras with apricot preserves, salts, and country bread put every other bread/butter spread in New York to shame, while solid entrées (veal tenderloin with sweetbreads, basil-crusted halibut) never miss the mark. That's how it's done in Marc's house: nu-twists on classic Americana savory stuff reign supreme, while cocktails and desserts are nothing to pass by either.