Gioco

Gioco is as close as you can come to the Hollywood ideal of the Chicago Italian restaurant: dark wood everywhere, a gargantuan bar, multiple levels of mostly group diners and an army of waitstaff serving them. The style is Tuscan, the plates and martinis are big if a bit pricey (the drinks will blow you away before the food does) and the water glasses are kept full. Known for his usual technicolor-orgy sensibility, owner Jerry Kleiner restrained himself this time to stick with a classic Chicago-style Italian formula that works.