Hotel Griffou

Stealth-posh scene-stealer. Name recalls 19th-century boardinghouse, nostalgic build-out plenty justifies the history poaching. Marie Griffou herself is remembered in sautéed pork cutlets, from her 1892 recipe. Balance of menu glances back with the likes of steak Diane, stuffed lobster tails, duck a l'orange. Warren-like array down unmarked stairs, with half a dozen intimate rooms. Ornate, detailed, vintage. Leo and Chloe early visitors, spearheading a glut of bold-faced names.