J & G Steakhouse

Swanky red meat rendez-vous is the latest orgy for Washington's red-blooded high society. "W" home address prevents Dukes-of-Hazard lookalikes from walking in off the tour bus. Thirty-foot high ceilings, cream-colored square pillars, distinguished square chairs and square-jawed waiters straight outta Davidoff ads. Ingenious sweet/savory appetizers concocted by chef célèbre Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Steaks sold like Tiffany lamps−every shape, size, color, and price. Raw bar and crab cakes keep it local. Proustian desserts summon for Julia Childs.