Kebab Café

Blown up by Tony Bourdain, but Astoria Egyptian still as authentic as you'll find this side of Alexandria. Ignore the menu in front, let Chef Ali tell you what he's making special. Hopefully it's hummus and baba to start, followed by terrific offal (lamb cheeks with egg!). Lightly breaded fried brains will have you craving headmeat more than they did in Night of the Living Dead. Tiny shop cluttered with Egyptian kitsch, crowds up at peak hours, but definitely worth whatever effort it takes to get here.