Editorial Review

The pied piper of bistronomy is again luring foodies into neighborhoods where they wouldn't normally deign to dine. Christian Etchebest (Le Troquet, Le Grand Pan), has hit a home run with new and buzzy address. Prices are gasp-inducingly low - pig ears  tagged at €6.50 and the best-ever poitrine de porc for only €13.50. What's more, there was really good (seriously!) red wine by the liter (!) for only €14. That should help to explain the recent designation by Le Fooding as best "troquet" (watering hole). Deserts are so-so, but you probably won't have room anyway after you polish off that refill on your basket of hand-cut fries. No reservations, and closed Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Also runs Le Troquet and Le Grand Pan.