La Cave Gourmande

In-the-know foodies truck out to this far corner of the 19th where a nondescript dining room yields lovely New French concoctions. The prix fixe menu doesn't offer a lot of choice, but compensates with unusual and inspired combinations: curried leek and shellfish terrine, partridge on a bed of cabbage, creamed peas with prawn brioche, tarragon pig-cheek fricassée. Surly service and a famously grouchy chef can be sometimes be a buzzkill. €28 menu at lunch, €33 at dinner. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday.