L'Ami Jean

Stéphane Jégo worked for years under bistronomy pioneer Camdeborde. His own address shares the sophisticated-yet-sturdy approach to trad cuisine. Below black ham, berets, and garlic-and-pepper garlands, a tight, noisy floor is visibly enjoying the generous, creative kitchen and well-priced wine. The Basque decor from the previous owners hasn't budged, Jégo has added dishes from Brittany and other regions. The result is a diverse collection of dishes: tiny Basque eels, farm-raised rabbit in cider, seasonal game. Finish off with an old-fashioned riz au lait. You can also hit the nearby quai with a €25 picnic basket. Menus around €30, and count on €50 à la carte. Closed Sunday and Monday.