Editorial Review

Bust out the AmEx Black for Alain Passard’s iconoclastic, musical creations. A signature amuse-bouche of cream, egg yolk, and maple syrup, served in the shell, begins the face-melting experience. The inventive menu jilts carnivores by giving pride of place to vegetables. Your salad may cost €40, but it will be composed of "grand cru" vegetables picked and brought by high-speed train just hours before. A few flesh dishes, perfectly done, are also on hand to placate the bloodthirsty. Downsides: the decor and service are a bit anemic, and the shamelessly overpriced wine list offers nothing by the glass. Menus at €60 (lunch) and €130-340 (dinner); €200+ à la carte. Closed Saturday and Sunday.