Editorial Review

Le Hide is full of contradictions. Chef Hide Kobayashi is Japanese but cooks some of the most old-school traditional French that you'll find in the capital. Having trained with Dominique Bouchet and Joël Robuchon, this immigrant knows how to poach a skate and float an island. What's remarkable is Kobayashi, with all these credentials, has chosen to pimp a completely affordable menu: two courses for €22 and three for €29, plus a glass of vin du jour for €2. To be clear—nothing in this neighborhood is cheap. Smile contentedly as you sip your €1.50 beer and wait for your frogs' legs to arrive: you're getting away with murder. Only 30 seats in tiny space, so be sure to reserve. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday.