Le Paradou

Epicurean litmus test lets you know which of your friends is faking. Mind-blowing wine list separates sommeliers from the wannabes. Flawless French cuisine follows suit, straying from tradition only when necessary. Provençale label boils down to lots of extra thyme. Cream and beige everything-the color's all on your plate except for the glass octopus chandelier. And the ceiling has stars! The rare destination where you dress up for the food and not the crowd.