Le Sèvero

William Bernet, who trained as a butcher, gets his meats from Desnoyer (supplier of regional and heirloom meats to most of the top chefs in Paris) and then personally ages them further. The result? Depth of flavor, texture, and overall quality that’s unique to this address. Peerless tartares, ribs, and steak frites served in massive portions. The warm, wood-varnished space shows off its entire wine cellar on a wall of blackboards. Only holds a scant twenty diners, so book well in advance. €30-40. Closed Saturday and Sunday.