Editorial Review

Little had changed about this classic bistro near Invalides since its opening in 1923... until recently. In 2009 the infamous Thierry Costes and his partner Jean-François Piège swept in to refurbish the joint. While such efforts usually end in disaster, this clever team kept much of the classic decor (red velvet banquettes, yellow walls) and made only a few art-déco additions. It's not suprising that Piège, who cheffed at Le Crillon, has put a shine on southwestern classics like duck confit, cassoulet, and everyone's low-brow fave: rillettes. It is, however, surprising that the prices have not skyrocketed above their current levels (€30 for lunch and €45 for dinner).