Editorial Review

Jean-François Piège’s menu is short, with only three each of starter, meat, and fish dishes and four signature plates. Selection changes almost daily and reflects Piège’s lifelong reverence for produce. Expect unique alliances, like sweetbreads swimming in carrot juice and purée. The Duke d’Aumont’s 1775 ballroom is a jewel box of Baccarat chandeliers, soaring mirrors, rare marbles, and gilt molding. Surprisingly easy to get a reservation—ask for a table with a view over the Concorde. Cheese trays are mind-blowing. Coat and tie, gents. An €88 lunch lunch menu is served Tuesday-Friday, otherwise it's €200+ à la carte. The gastro resto is closed on Sunday when the hotel puts on a well-loved €60 brunch.