Matchbox

Skinny all-brick townhouse is the clown car of Chinatown: hundreds keep pouring out a single tiny door but nobody ever seems to get in. Patience is a virtue, though a neck ringed with chunky jewelry and a sly wink has been shown to decrease wait times. Industrial lamps highlight a multi-level stage of polished oak tables, all of them jam-packed. Backup dancers from R&B video feast on pizza baked on a fire. Sliders set city standard.