Matsugen

Anal in the best Japanese way. Like the commissary of a zen museum. Matsushita brothers team with Jean Georges for immaculately sourced, exquisitely prepared, über-authentic fare. Soba’s the specialty, both hot and cold, plus yuba sashimi, scallop with urchin, Maine lobster shabu shabu. Minimalist digs suitably sleek, with delicate metal chairbacks along the attenuated communal table. Give an f.u. to accounting by expensing that $132 Kagoshima Wagyu beef rib eye.