Editorial Review

This spotless, shoebox-sized relic of Jardins has been owning the pao de queijo—a cheese bread snack made with cassava flour—department ever since its inception, with a fresh batch out every 15 minutes. The chicken lovers' coxinha attraction is its crunch, unlike any candy bar. Tots dodge in and out between businessmen's legs, much like their parents did once upon a time there. A small bench teases the rest who have to stand up and eat at the miniscule counter. On the sweet end of the palate is a towering lemon pie that deserves to be taken home and devoured nude. Before leaving, shake hands with the lovable Tiao, a local celebrity in the area recognized for his 35-plus years working there.