Passage 53

A new contender among those racing to serve the best ingredients in France (see also: Les Fines Gueules, Racines, Cul de Poule, Jeu de Quilles). Japanese chef Sato has a stint at l'Astrance under his belt, and a respectful touch with the Desnoyer meat and Thiebault veggies in his fridge. Fans of tartare wiill happily freak over the stellar selection of raw animal. Natural wines help to wash it all down. Great central city location, with a few tables "outside" under the Passage des Panoramas. Like Racines, but with Asian waitstaff and silly chairs.