Pied-à-Terre

Packed and thriving despite disruptive Canada Line subway construction outside, Chef Andrey Durbach and partner Chris Stewart are clearly doing something very right inside. Simple and unfussy both in decor and classic bistro fare, standouts include onion pie, rich foie gras parfait, steak frites with a quartet of sauces to choose from, and a sublime trout with green beans almandine. Great prix-fixe menu under $30. Exclusively French wine list is both elegant and accessibly priced, and desserts are a big oui.