Editorial Review

Ancient Chinese silk-trade-route teahouse ritual resurrected by British chain upholds tradition of matching fragrant tea with dim sum while chewing the fat with fellow armchair travelers. Cheeky, modern-day cocktails thrown in to help loosen chopstick-wielding fingers. Food comes steamed, baked and fried, from translucent dumplings filled with king prawns and bamboo shoots to baked roast pork puffs. Drinks menu put diners in far east mood with ingredients like lychee and jasmine. It could be Shanghai: A huge vertical garden, wood fixtures stained in black, low lighting and chill-out music makes older crowd comfy whipping out Blackberrys and platinum credit cards.